Félix Meyer’s old-vine Pinot Blanc from the slopes of Katzenthal, in Alsace, has long overdelivered in the role of the proverbial “crisp white” for which we long. It has obvious thirst-quenching properties, expressed in the form of perky acidity and a mouth-watering, almost smoky mineral note that grabs hold of the back of the palate. But it also carries generous flesh, like the succulent texture of farmers’ market stone fruits, enlivened by an exotic bolt of lime.
Perhaps due to the fifty-year-old vines, plus Félix’s liberal interpretation of “Pinot Blanc”—the blend also includes Pinot Gris and Pinot Auxerrois—this crisp blanc does far more than what its price point might suggest. The first glass may satisfy our craving for something cold quite swimmingly, but the second reveals a nuanced wine of real substance.

Blend: 65% Pinot Auxerrois, 20% Pinot Blan